At the Southern Museum of Archaeology, I findHomo heidelbergensis, the last common ancestorof man and Neanderthals. A skull with a sloping forehead, pronounced brow ridgesand no jawbone, a skull that, coupled with a heart,once contained techniques of ecstasy,esoteric knowledge of joy, gained, perhaps, near a gentle soughing stream orat dawn, sunset, night under the stars orafter a…

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